Remembering to Laugh

           While I have been extremely busy over the past few weeks, I have somehow managed to find the time to read Funny in Farsi: A Memoir Of Growing Up Iranian in America by Firoozeh Dumas. Dumas approaches her stories with a humorous tone as the title suggests. Throughout the book, she explores the challenges that she and her family experienced as immigrants to a foreign country, some as emotionally loaded and complex as racial prejudices and tensions, and some as universal as responding to a creative pronunciation of a name. Dumas’s book is about meeting and overcoming challenges, but never does the author ask for the reader’s pity. Not once does Dumas take on an accusatory tone or blame anyone for the difficulties she writes about. Her tone remains positive and entertaining even when the subject material is serious. For example, the chapter about her family’s encounter with anti-shah demonstrators on a trip to Washington D.C. to welcome Iran’s leader is entitled “I Ran and I Ran and I Ran”. Her writing is not always optimistic, but is always heartwarming and droll. Dumas not only meets challenges with a sense of humor, but emerges on the other side with that sense of humor still in tact, no matter the outcome.

Since I have the unique pleasure of enjoying Dumas’s book through the lens of my own experience here in Russia, I have been able to apply this concept to my everyday life. Of course, a major difference between my experience and Dumas’s is that I know that I will be heading home in June, however, this book has shown me that adjusting to life in another country is more or less the same no matter where you go. When I first arrived in Kazan, I did not speak a word of Russian just as the young Dumas did not speak any English upon her arrival in the United States. Although my name is pretty easy to pronounce in any language, it sounds extremely similar to the Tatar word for “grandmother” which always gets a giggle from the students I volunteer with at the Tatar Gymnasium. Dumas and I even had similar foreign exchange experiences gone awry in France. Most of all, though, Funny in Farsi has validated and helped me learn how to experience my feelings about being a foreigner.

At this point in my journey, I have become so comfortable not fitting in anywhere that I almost feel uncomfortable when I do fit in somewhere. I had the pleasure of enjoying a lovely Christmas dinner with some of the American students from my classes and some of the Fulbright scholars who are working in Kazan. It was so odd to be in a room full of people whom I don’t know very well, but with whom I didn’t have to struggle to find the right words to communicate with. Sure, over the past four months my Russian has developed so that I can have a conversation with my host family that doesn’t resemble a game of charades, or so that I can tell the waitress at my favorite café that the English version of the menu won’t be necessary because I only speak French and Russian (the things we do for language practice…), but I rehearse every word and every sentence structure over and over in my head before it comes out of my mouth. When a Russian asks how I am doing, I respond “normally” in the Russian tradition, but the definition of “normal” has changed dramatically for me. “Normal” means understanding only fifty percent of what is going on around me at any given moment. “Normal” means not knowing if I will get to class fifteen minutes early or an hour late because traffic is so unpredictable. “Normal” means that I am still not entirely sure what animal the meat on my plate at lunch came from, but I ate it anyway. “Normal” means that I am learning and experiencing more on a daily basis than I ever have before. “Normal” means getting a sideways look every time I open my mouth because, for the first time in my life, I have an accent. “Normal” means never being the “normal” one, and always being the exception—the foreigner. Funny in Farsi reminds me that even when I get the sideways look for speaking with an accent, and even when I have to lie about my nationality in order to isolate myself from the English language, there is always a way to look at a situation from a place of positivity and laughter.

Finally, in the afterword, Dumas says, “…I truly believe that everyone has a story and everyone’s story counts.”  This quote perfectly summarizes why I am so passionate about languages, and Russian in particular. I too believe that everyone has a story and that everyone’s story counts. I believe that I will be able to understand people’s stories better if I can speak their languages, and I want to be able to tell my own story in as many languages as possible.  

Как всегда,

Аббй

Moscow Pics

One of the Cathedrals in the Kremlin

The entrance to Red Square

The view from outside of the Kremlin

MGU-The tower of Moscow State University. One of the "Seven Sister" buildings in Moscow

St. Basil's Cathedral

"Red Square" 

I forgot to post these after I got back from Moscow, but mi madre requested them because she likes picture books. Love you mom! 

Buinsk

    Hello readers! First off, I would like to offer my deepest apologies for dropping the ball on the cookie pics! They turned out well and they were simply gone before I could photograph them. I have been extremely busy for the past few weeks with a combination of coursework, concerts, and excursions. At the end of November, I took the "Basic" level Test of Russian Language (TORFL). After one semester of Russian in the host country, I found the exam itself to be extremely easy. The Russian testing environment, though, is incredibly different from what you might experience in the states. To give you an idea, while you might be kicked out of an SAT test site if your telephone buzzes under your seat, testers were allowed to use electronic dictionaries on their telephones. While it was, perhaps, a less organized environment, it was also a more relaxed one. I found it to be less stressful and more conducive to concentration. 
   Two weeks ago I had the opportunity to spend a weekend in Buinsk, another town in Tatarstan. As in Ribnaya Slaboda in October, I stayed with a very kind host family. I had two brothers in Buinsk which was a rather unique experience for me as I have sisters both in America and in Kazan. The town was extremely welcoming and every effort was made to make sure that we were comfortable there. Some of the most memorable events included multiple concerts in our honor at public schools, a "press conference" of sorts at the same school (an opportunity for students to ask us questions), a visit to the sugar factory, and ice skating at the town's skating rink. Visiting the sugar factory was nothing like what I imagined Willy Wonka's factory to be like, but I found it interesting because it has changed very little since it was built in the '60's. As we were guided up and down steep, narrow, metal staircases, beets were transformed into sugar inches away from us. We were allowed to be much closer to the machinery than we ever would have been in the U.S., and I noticed that many safety measures that are enforced in America (like wearing closed-toed shoes in this kind of setting) were forgotten. I think I got the best view of the town from the roof of the sugar factory. I do love Kazan, but every once in a while it is nice to get out of the city for a few days. 
   Christmas is this Sunday, but it will be a year without a Santa Clause for me! In Russia, the more popular holiday is New Year's which I look forward to celebrating with my host family. Whichever holiday you happen to be celebrating this winter, may I wish you happiness and luck. Best wishes especially to my fellow exchange students around the world. 
с новым годом!
аббй

домашние печенья в России: Tips for the International Baker

       For as long as I can remember, my mom, sisters, grammy and I have baked cookies together during the Christmas season. Sometimes we experiment with pretty spritz cookies or those pesky rosettes, but every year we make batches upon batches of Great Grandma Kuck's sugar cookies. As a surprise for my host family and, of course, a taste of home during the holiday season, I decided to whip up a batch of these scrumptious treats. Things I did not consider before attempting this experiment: the differences between American all-purpose flour and European flours, volume vs. mass measurements.
       Most lay-bakers in America have a bag of all-purpose flour in the cupboards. As the name suggests, it can be used for, well, all (or most) purposes. In Europe and Russia, however, flour is sold in both "bread" and "cake" varieties. While both bread and cake flour are sold in the U.S., all-purpose is more common and less of a pain in the behind. When I went to the grocery to purchase my baking goods, I was aware that there were different kinds of flour, but I forgot that most of the cake flour sold here is "self-rising". This means that it already contains baking powder, so most stores don't sell baking powder on it's own. The cashier gave me such a crazy look when I asked where I could find it.
       As for the differences in measuring methods, this would have been easily dealt with if I had access to a scale, but alas I did not. With the internet, a sharpie, and some guesswork, I did some kitchen McGyver-ing. Currently, my dough is in fact a dough and it is happily chilling in the fridge. I'll post some pictures if they turn out tomorrow, but until then, I will leave you with happy holiday thoughts.
Much love,
Abby

москва!

         The past few weeks have been busier than Kazan traffic at rush hour! Among the highlights was a brief trip to Moscow. Although Moscow is such an international city, I like to think that, at it's core, it is a distinctly Russian city. If you stand in one spot and ignore the cyrillic script on buildings and billboards, you can imagine that you are in any western city--Washington D.C. maybe. What sets Moscow apart from more western cities is the disorganization and chaos that is so characteristically and endearingly Russian. Rather than a grid system, the streets winded around the city in rings as it developed. Of course, we had a chance to drop by all of the Muscovite highlights--Red Square, the Kremlin and the Armory, Tretyakovskaya Gallery, and GUM. I could spend this post on my impressions of these classic sights, but I fear that my observations are so similar to the tired accounts you must have heard a million times that I might as well copy and paste a Wikipedia article. I will spare you. Instead, I would like to write about a delightful little place called Му Му кафе-- a cafeteria style restaurant who's name transliterates to "Moo Moo Cafe". The cow motif is apparent throughout the eatery, and the food was rather tasty! The best part was the life-size cow sculpture outside. Perhaps my favorite memory from the trip is stopping to listen to an impromptu poetry slam in front of the cow one evening on our way back to the hostel. The fact that we travelled to and from Moscow by overnight train was the cherry on top of a wonderful weekend.
           To my friends and family back in the states, and American exchange students all over the world, I wish a happy belated Thanksgiving! While I haven't seen a single turkey in Russia, my host family decided to surprise me with a giant, frozen solid one at 7:30 in the evening on Thanksgiving. After various attempts to put it in the microwave, oven, sink, and refrigerator (in that order), I was able to rescue the turkey and convince my family that there is no harm in celebrating Thanksgiving a day late. It was a wonderful surprise and I am certainly thankful for being welcomed into such a fabulous home.
        Well, I am going to sign off now even though I have much more to write about. I am currently in the middle of taking the TORFL exam (which is a blast, let me tell you!) and I have some last minute cramming to do before the speaking portion tomorrow.
спасибо!
аббй

The Shirtless Guitar Player

        Before leaving for Russia, my mother and I had a small disagreement about the appropriate number of wool socks I would need to bring. I don’t know who “won” or “lost” that argument, but I’m glad I didn’t bring any fewer than I did. The Russian winter is here and I’m pretty sure it won’t be going anywhere for a while. Today we had our first real snow; a dusting of powdered sugar now covers Kazan. Over the weekend we saw the sun for the first time in a while, but the clear days were even colder and whipping winds ripped through hats and scarves and flesh straight to the bone. I know this is only the beginning of my first Russian winter, so I hesitate to complain and, hey, if the shirtless guitar player can handle the chill, so can I. That’s right folks, the shirtless guitar player. When the temperatures reach below freezing, he stands on the main pedestrian street and serenades the masses for fifteen or twenty minutes at a time…topless. I interpret this as a sign that even in the dismally dark, frigid winter months, there is joy to be had.

            A few nights ago, I was offered an extra ticket to the ballet Anyuta (based on Chekov’s short story) at the last minute. I showed up severely underdressed and still carrying my book bag. Though I felt conspicuous at the time, I was later reminded of one of the most important lessons that my father ever taught me: always carry a good book. To say our seats were in the “nosebleed” section would be an understatement. Our seats were in the depths of the sinuses. Since the house was not sold out my friends and I decided to attempt to sneak into a better section. Little did we realize that Russian ushers are militant about their work. We tried every trick in the book from pretending we knew exactly what we were doing to pretending we couldn’t understand the word “ticket” in Russian. We were almost triumphant, but were foiled by a family of latecomers. Forced back to our original seats, I had an excellent view of the chandelier. I spent most of the first act reading. I was able to see the second act a little bit better thanks to the young woman sitting in front of me who left at intermission, and from what I could see it was fabulous!

            When I was applying for this program, I had two main reasons for wanting to participate in a long-term exchange. I wanted to end the program with a good control of the language, and I wanted to live in the country long enough to feel “at home”. I could write all day about what it means to be “at home”, but I think that feeling comfortable enough to trust Russian sushi (which is extremely popular, by the way) explains plenty. One benefit of being here for such a long time is experiencing the holidays. Last Sunday was the Muslim holiday Eid and, because approximately fifty percent of the population here in Kazan is Muslim, classes were cancelled! Eid is a holiday about giving thanks for what you have and helping others who may not be as fortunate. Traditionally, those who can afford to do so purchase a lamb, bless and slaughter it, and give away the meat. I cannot reiterate enough that the coolest thing about Kazan is the mélange of Tatar and Russian cultures. I am so lucky to live in such a diverse and peaceful place.

Much love to my friends, family, and fellow exchange students around the world.

Спасибo!

абби

Superglue

          Expletives leave my lips like bullets from a machine gun. In one swift move, I rip off my pants, just in time for my host mom to come in to make sure everything is ok. Sure, I enjoy the freedom of panstlessness as much as the next person, but since I am living in someone else’s house I do my best to keep ‘em on.  It has been chilly enough that I sometimes even wear two pairs! However, in this particular instance I was lucky to be able to get them off. While using superglue to repair a pair of boots that should have lasted longer than they did, some dripped onto my jeans effectively gluing my pants on. It was a little embarrassing for my host mom to walk in on me with no pants on, but I was relieved not to have to send the text to my resident director asking for de-pantsing advice.

            In other news, I have been busy with classes and volunteering in two public schools. Working in the schools has offered me the most opportunities to make Russian friends, and aside from everything else I have going on, there is a never-ending flow of invitations keeping me busy. It is when I am in the schools or hanging out with other students that I feel like I fit in the most. It is then that I realize that we are all just people and that there are very few differences separating us. Russian students especially take interest in what American teens do in their free time, what kind of music we listen to, and how exactly “trick or treating” works.

            Recently, we visited the new Museum of Soviet Times. It was a very small museum hidden away on a side street, but it was filled with trinkets and toys from the Soviet Period. The owner happened to be there at the time of our visit and he was very eager to talk to us about the museum. He is especially interested in rock’n’roll music that was popular at the time, and on Sunday afternoons the museum becomes the venue of a jam session complete with fog machine and flashing lights. Famous musicians have donated various items to the museum. For example, all guests are welcome to play on Sting’s old guitar. After this fun visit to a kind of hole-in-the-wall place, we went out for Georgian food, which was absolutely delicious. Last weekend I went to see Swan Lake at the ballet and opera theater. The dancing was beautiful and the pit orchestra was quite good. The only disappointment was that the company chose to perform the “happy ending” version of the classic fairy tale.

Well, the weather has been getting pretty cold which I suppose is to be expected from Russia at this time of year. Walking home this evening, the sight of two youngsters trying to catch snowflakes on their tongues was almost enough to melt my emotionless “Russian face” into a smile. It was almost enough, but not quite enough. I’ve gotten quite good at the stone cold expression that Russians wear most of the time. I wasn’t quite prepared for how early it would get dark, so for now I try to stay out as late as I can and avoid taking naps. Coming up soon is a trip to Moscow, which I am very much looking forward to! Much love to everyone, and have a safe and happy Halloween! 

A Quick Read

A really interesting and well-written article about Kazan!

http://russiaprofile.org/politics/a1285148895.html

Over the River and Through the Woods, to Grandmother's House We Go!

Every day I spend approximately an hour traveling to and from the university. With Kazan currently preparing for the 2013 Universiade (a youth Olympics, of sorts), traffic is abundant and unpredictable. My trek to class every morning and home at night is worsened by the fact that I live on the opposite side of the Kazanka river from the university and the town center.

I know that's not really very exciting, but it's all I could think of for the "over the river" portion of this post. The past two weekends have been occupied with the "through the woods" part. While I now feel very at home in Kazan, visiting the small Tatar village of Rybnaya Sloboda was absolutely one of the highlights of my time in Russia so far. After class last Friday, we settled in for a two hour bus ride through the countryside to the town. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by a group of teenagers and served the traditional welcoming tea, chak-chak, and bread with salt. To our surprise, they had turned their gymnasium into a "discotheque" and, after we introduced ourselves, we danced the night away. As it turns out, Russian boys aren't half bad at dancing! We were graced with a performance by the town's Tatar dance troupe which has won national competitions in Moscow. After the party, my host sister for the night took me home where a feast awaited us. Everything was delicious, but it brought me to the realization that perhaps competitive eating is the wrong career path for me. When I commented on a particularly flavorful sausage, my host family tried to explain to me that it was horse meat. I thought that they were mistaken and meant cow, but the only way I could think of to communicate that was to moo repeatedly. The response I received was "No! Giddyup!" Much to the chagrin of my staunchly vegan sister (love you, Kat!), I have indeed snacked on pony meat...and it was kind of delicious. After dinner number one, my host sister took me out to meet some of her friends. Most of them had never met an American before and took interest in everything from my education to McDonalds. My visit to Rybnaya Sloboda was my first exposure to the time-tried tradition of the Russian banya. The banya is a delightful combination of a bath and a sauna, but there is a distinctly Russian twist. Russians take turns whacking each other up and down their backs with a bunch of hot birch branches which is thought to open the pores in order to further the detoxifying benefits of the steam room. In winter time, a brisk roll-around in the snow is also common.

The next morning I was up early for a delicious breakfast of homemade ish pish mach and a short drive to the region's agricultural school where we spent most of the day meeting more students and learning about the school. The school was founded on the principles of independence and connection to the land that are so central to Russian culture. Of course, we were pleased to mingle with the students and answer more questions about America. Rybnaya Sloboda will forever remain in my heart as one of the most friendly, welcoming, and interesting places in the world.

While I should really be getting to the enormous mountain of homework that I have neglected all weekend, I will take a moment to write about the "to grandmother's house we go" part of all this. My Kazan host family took me this weekend to visit their babushka in the village. We spent a lot of time helping her in the garden, harvesting carrots and cabbage. I also had the unique opportunity to go mushroom hunting in the forest! Don't try this at home folks! Most of the ones we found were poisonous, but babushka got some good ones to preserve for winter.

Much love to my friends and family!
до свидания!
~abby~

Russia in Love

        There is a saying here that if the food is too salty, it means the chef is in love. Based on the cuisine I have been exposed to, every Russian chef is so distracted by their lover that they lose control of the saltshaker. Recently though, I have had a few opportunities to take over at the stove. Last week in a Tatar cooking class I learned how to make the classic ish pish mach, a tasty potato and meat filled pastry with an awesome name. While learning how to make this local dish was delightful, nothing is quite as therapeutic as comfort food. Although my host family originally scoffed at the idea of macaroni and cheese claiming that it is “too simple” (referring to the lack of meat, I think), my homemade masterpiece changed their minds.

            Last weekend we went to visit the Gabdullah Tuquay museum, which is about two hours north of Kazan. The villages we drove through to get there were really quite lovely, even in the rain. Tuquay is said to be “the Tatar’s Pushkin”, their national literary figure. His is most famous for his poetic retellings of traditional Tatar fairytales. An English translation of his poem “The Shurela” can be found at the following address: http://www.gabdullatukay.ru/eng/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=165&Itemid=37. Yes. It is a poem about a monster that tickles young maidens to death. Enjoy!

            I apologize for the brief post, but there is more to come! I promise! Much love to family and friends back home; I hope you are all doing well!
~abby~

Princesses, and Communists, and Monks, oh my!

         Overlooking the crowded streets and tall, modern apartment buildings of Kazan is the beautiful Kazan Kremlin. Aside official government buildings lies both the Russian Orthodox Annunciation Cathedral that dates back to 1564 and the Kul Sharif Mosque, built in 2005, a demonstration of the ethnic and religious diversity that makes Kazan such a unique place. On my first visit to the Kazan Kremlin, a local told me the folklore behind the Soyembika Tower, a seven-story brick tower that stands next to the church. In 1551, Ivan the Terrible mercilessly set out to conquer Kazan for Russia and quash Tatar culture; however, the beautiful Tatar princess, Soyembika, captured his heart instead. In order to save her people, she told Ivan that if he could build a tower of seven stories in seven days, she would marry him. Every day the tsar added another story to his brick tower. On the seventh day, the princess requested to see the top of the tower before the wedding. When she got to the seventh story, she jumped to her death rather than marry the tsar. Evidence shows that this is only a myth, but the actual age of the tower is unknown.  

            I have been fortunate to have the opportunity to see another of Kazan’s historical sites: Doma Lenina; the Ulyanov family’s residence in 1887 when Lenin attended Kazan Federal University. After Lenin’s older brother Alexander was executed for attempting to murder the tsar, it was suggested that he abandon his plan to attend university in Moscow so he came to Kazan instead. The house that the family rented while in Kazan has been turned into a museum including documents and photos, and many of the rooms have been restored to look as they did when the family lived there. While Lenin museums appear all over Russia, I suggest that visitors to Kazan take the time to check this one out. While you will be asked to wear some super cute burlap sacks over your shoes so you don’t track in dirt, this particular museum provides a good look at a younger Lenin and his family life.

            Last weekend was cold and rainy, but that didn’t stop us from continuing to explore the city. Before a visit to the cinema to see Jane Eyre dubbed in Russian, we went to the Raif Monastery. Considered to be one of the most holy places in this part of Russia by Orthodox Christian Russians, the monastery lies only about an hour away from Kazan. Raif was built in the 1600’s and remained in working condition until it and other religious establishments were outlawed by the Soviet Union. Political dissidents were imprisoned there during the soviet period, but it has since been restored as a working monastery and boy’s home. Even in the rain, the lake and gardens were alive with color, and the green domes of the chapels stood out against the grey sky. Inside, religious visitors pray to the icons that line the gold-plated walls and the complicated harmonies of the monks reverberate throughout the room. For many, a highlight of visiting the monastery is the chance to experience the supposedly medicinal qualities of the holy water. Babushkas and young hooligans alike line up at a small building to fill their water bottles and jugs. I can’t vouch for it’s medicinal qualities, but I guess it tasted all right! 

            Bus rides continue to be a daily source of entertainment. I’ll be brief and say that I have seen some creative uses of duct tape and some experimental off-road driving. Otherwise, all is well in the land of blini!

I send my love to my friends and family on the other side of the world!

~Abby~

 Kul Sharif Mosque

 Soyembika Tower

 Raif Monastery Cathedral

In Which Hilarity Ensues

While many would be put off by the thought of living abroad, especially in a country like Russia, I have realized that living abroad is like living in an unreal comedy world. Things that you would never expect to happen in the States happen all the time here. The other day a wild dog hopped on my bus and fell alseep under a seat. A friend of mine was sniffed and smacked by a babushka in a bazaar. As far as I can tell, there are no traffic laws whatsoever. The jungle of identical apartment buildings reminds one of the "sketchy" part of most towns and cities at home, but here it's just where people live. The Russian mindset is that outside of your own apartment does not belong to you and it is not your responsibility to take care of it. The television is always on, which does wonders for improving language skills by the way. Whether it's a dancing drunk at an outdoor concert or the fact that they still allow tire swings, see-saws, and those merry-go round things on playgrounds here, you can always find something to make you giggle. Sure there's the language barrier to deal with, but who doesn't listen to Eminem? Even the misconceptions of America and Americans are funny. I was asked why I'm not fat. Russian students explained American history to me like this: "George Washington was the first president. Then Abraham Lincoln freed all of the rappers from the South." Even on my "off" days, I can find comfort in the small comedies and, if all else fails, the MacDonalds down the street from me.

In Which the Locally Grown Goes Foreign

Dear Readers,
Hello from Kazan! After so much anticipation, \I am excited to finally be here. The flight on Friday went very smoothly, although I think I may have scared a very nice Russian man when I fell asleep/drooled on him. I suppose there is always the chance that he didn't notice the drool... My first experiences in Russia have been a whirlwind! My host family is very welcoming and very understanding of the fact that I have no previous Russian langauge experience! Already my language skills are improving, and I anticipate that they will do so more rapidly when classes start. Kazan is a beautiful city, but it is taking a while to get used to the jungle of apartment buildings. They all look quite similar and it is really difficult to tell them apart. I have gotten a chance to visit the Kazan Kremlin which includes a new mosque, built in 2005, and an old Russian Orthodox church. The center of the city is also very beautiful. The architechture is more stereotypically European, unlike the blocks of apartment buildings. Even though I have only been in Russia for a few days, it has become apparent that it's an "anything goes" kind of place. Everyone dresses like they are Hollywood stars, even if they are only going to the grocery, and women wear sky-high heels all the time. Even after walking a couple of miles today in boots my feet were aching. I don't know how they do it! I eat meals with my host family. The food is very good, but it is quite bland and very rich and I have a hard time finishing all of it. We drink "chai" (black tea) all the time which is wonderful, but the other day when I requested a glass of water it was given to me warm. So far, my experience has taught me that Russians have a deadly fear of the cold. I am constantly being told to bring a jacket with me and wear warm socks even though temperatures have been in the high 70's lately. I am learning so much here and I can't wait for my classes to start! Lots of love to my friends and family at home!
~abby~